LH: I was referring to the whole area, the moraine hiking, crevasse jumping, campsite building, the trail breaking [and] the climbing. By continuing to use the website, you consent to our From weekly Facebook Lives and GB Climbing home training videos, to our access team working to re-open the crags and fight for your mountain access, we couldn’t have made it without you. Mirror Wall is located above the Edward Bailey Glacier in eastern Greenland. I've literally just got home, so am looking forward to some time with my wife and daughter who turned two while I was leading the blankest section of the route. This "ideal line" was climbed once again using trad gear and only a minimum amount of nuts and slings were left behind during the descent.The four returned to civilization on foot, covering the 35km distance three times to transport all their loads. Matt Pycroft is a talented, adventure filmmaker and photographer. These are external links and will open in a new window Watch Leo Houlding, Matt Pickles, Matt Pycroft, Waldo Etherington, and Joe Mohle make first ascent of the Mirror Wall, a blank tower of granite rising out of the Edward Bailey Glacier in Greenland's polar region.
times Copyright Berghaus, Matt Pycroft, Coldhouse Collective Joe is from South Africa and is a strong trad climber with lots of experience on bigger routes in remote areas. It wasn’t at all clear if we would find a way to the top. 01/01/2020 Lots of serac collapses, avalanches and rockfalls, although none directly threatened our route. Next they climbed the ridge bounding the left side of the face alpine-style in three days via Midnight Solarium (7b 45 degrees, 1100m). walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. After the undeniable success Schüpbach stated: "Renland is still very remote and unexplored, offering an ideal venue for first ascents on granite big walls of up to 1000m in height – probably some of the tallest unclimbed big-walls on earth. Despite challenging conditions including illness, crevasse falls, storms and plundering polar bears, Leo Houlding and a small team of Brits have climbed a new line on an epic 1,200m granite big wall in Arctic Greenland. There are many impressive walls and lines in Greenland, and I haven’t seen any of others so can't comment. The Reciprocal Rights Card gives BMC members discounted rates in alpine huts. I have done stuff with all the guys over the years and all are very talented and experienced in their fields, however none of them have ever been on a big wall expedition first ascent like this.
Posting as 1300 Source Berghaus. On paper E6 6b, (VI 5.12b) A3+, 1250m doesn’t sound like much but in reality it took a lifetime of experience to find the way.
I had my eye on a secondary objective and an idea for another jaunt had we had that week spare, but thankfully we had just enough time for our primary goal. 1 Matt Pickles is an 8c sport climber who used to trad climb and has climbed El Cap. 2 At least 1100m directly above the snow; way bigger than El Cap. These are external links and will open in a new windowA climber from Cumbria has led the first ascent of a huge vertical rock face in Greenland.Leo Houlding was one of a team of five to climb the main north-west face of Mirror Wall, which at 4,000 ft (1,200 m) is almost four times the height of London's Shard.It took 12 days to reach to the top of the sheer granite cliff, with team members sleeping in hanging ledges.The team braved arctic conditions and reached the top during a snow storm.The team members left the UK in late June and, after stopping off in Iceland, made their way by air to Greenland before getting to the base camp by helicopter.Even before reaching the foot of the cliff they had to deal with crevasse falls on a glacier and supplies that were ravaged by polar bears.
Leo Houlding and Joe Mohle having breakfast before heading out to climb on a bad weather day.
The weather was amazing for the first two weeks. Waldo is an extreme recreational tree climber and rigging master with some rock climbing experience (rock climbers can learn much from tree climbers about rigging and rope management). The aid was hard, lots of hooks, beaks, microwires and blades but never too dangerous.
Photos from above looking down at the climber on the FA of a big wall. The expedition took months to plan and supplies were shipped to Iceland, flown to Greenland and then snowmobiled to a hunting outpost in Scoresby Sund Fjord in May, before seasonal ice break up.
Worked like a charm.
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